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GOLD

A Buyer's Guide for Gold Jewelry

GOLD JEWELRY HAS been a must-have accessory for women throughout the ages. Today, gold is hotter than ever — just take a look at the fashion mags.
But knowing that you're getting your money's worth when it comes to gold jewelry can be tricky. Unlike diamond buying, there are no four Cs or grading report to help you along once you're at the jewelry counter. Here's what you need to know:

The Golden Rules

The price of a given piece of gold jewelry is roughly based on its gold content, says Antoinette Matlins, author of "Jewelry & Gems: The Buying Guide." You'll pay a per-gram price that includes both the going rate for gold (currently about $30) and workmanship and design. By that measure, you could expect to spend as little as $400 on an unadorned, 10-gram wedding band made of 24-karat gold.
As a commodity, the market price of gold has skyrocketed over the years, from a per-ounce price of $280 at the end of 2000 to $860 at the end of 2007. The increase is largely due to investor fears about inflation and the weakness of the U.S. dollar, according to the World Gold Council, but rising demand for gold jewelry and consumer electronics has also played a significant role.
Inventory will generally reflect the going rate, but don't worry: Jewelers aren't updating their prices after market's close each day.
But when you're selecting gold jewelry to buy, there's much more to consider than the market rate of its material. Consider these four factors when you're shopping:

Karat

In diamonds, carats measure weight. But for gold, karats are a measure of purity. "Think of gold as a pie with 24 slices," says Matlins. Pure gold is 24 karats; the karatage label for lesser amounts is based on how many slices, or parts, of that 24K maximum are gold. So 18K, for example, is 18 parts gold and six parts other metals. The higher the karat, the more gold in a piece of jewelry — and the heftier its price tag.

That said, it is unusual to find 24K jewelry. "Pure gold is very soft," explains Matlins. "It bends and scratches easily. When we talk about gold jewelry, it's usually 14k or 18k." Goldsmiths alloy other metals — usually copper or silver — in this lower-karat gold to lend strength and durability. Check the jewelry for a karat marking (see chart below for common gold marks). For a piece to be labeled "gold" jewelry in the United States, it must be a minimum of 10K; in Britain and Canada, 9K; and in Italy and France, 18K.

Color

"All gold starts out yellow," says Amanda Gizzi, a spokeswoman for the Jewelry Information Center, a trade group. But alloyed with other metals, gold can be any color — white, red, green and even black. No one color is more valuable than another. Price will vary based on the karatage, as well as what other metals are included. A 22K white gold piece, for example, will still be pricier than 18K yellow gold. But 22K white gold alloyed with silver will be less expensive than 18K white gold alloyed with rhodium, a member of the platinum family. (Because pure gold is 24K, the highest-karat colored gold you'll see is 23K — and that's rare, says Gizzi. Most colored gold is 22K or less.)

Design

Here, the best value will be determined by your personal tastes. But do expect to pay a premium for jewelry crafted by a well-known artist, says Matlins, or for a piece with an intricate design. "You pay for the artistry in gold jewelry, as you would for a painting," she says. Gold filigree, for example, is created by pounding gold into thin wire, which is then twisted into a complex pattern and surrounded by a stronger gold frame. Check the piece for a manufacturer's trademark (usually found near the karat mark). High-end goldsmiths include this so the piece — and its quality — can be traced back to them.
Steer clear of pieces that are described as having gold plate (electroplate), fill or overlay. These pieces are made of one metal — anything from silver to nickel or lead — and coated with a thin layer of 10K or better gold. "It's not considered fine jewelry," cautions Matlins.

Production

How a piece is created will greatly affect its price. Machine-made jewelry is the cheapest option, while machine-made, hand-finished pieces are slightly more expensive. The priciest gold jewelry is created entirely by hand. "If a designer has to spend 30 hours making a chain, that's going to be reflected in the price," says Gizzi.

Shopping Tips
Stick with reputable retailers

Just because a piece is marked 18K gold doesn't mean it is, warns Gizzi. Less scrupulous sellers may put a high karat mark on a low-karat piece; a practice called under-karating. Shop with a retailer you trust, and be wary of no-name sellers online.

Consider an appraisal

Diamonds and gemstones aren't the only jewelry that needs appraising. If you're buying a pricey piece, an appraisal can give you an accurate measure of karat and composition.

Get hands on

"How does it feel against your palm, your skin?" says Matlins. Put back any piece that has sharp edges, or is otherwise rough or uncomfortable to wear.

Flip it over

A well-crafted piece will look just as nice from every angle, while a machine-made piece may look unfinished.

CIGARS-What makes a cigar great?

Looking for a Fine Cigar? Here's What Makes a Great Cigar Great

By Kelli B. Grant February 23, 2007

FROM ARNOLD SCHWARZENEGGER to Fidel Castro, if you know a true cigar aficionado, chances are it's one of his most defining characteristics. (Think Ernest Hemingway, Rush Limbaugh, and yep, we're going to go there: Bill Clinton.)

Cigars are often viewed as one of life's simple luxuries, but a fine cigar doesn't have to come with an equally fine price tag. "For $5, you can get some of the best cigars in the world," says Jack Bettridge, a senior features editor at Cigar Aficionado magazine. Expect to spend anywhere from $3 to $35 for most premium varieties.

First things first: If you're looking for quality, limit your search to those cigars crafted and rolled by hand. These bear the label of either "totalmente a mano" or "totally by hand," depending on the cigar's origin, on both the cigar band and box. (Most quality cigars come from Spanish-speaking countries.) Watch out for "hecho a mano" (made by hand) and "envuelto a mano" (packed by hand), which are quite literally close, but no cigar. Both terms indicate partial machine construction.

Beyond that, which cigar is best will depend entirely on your personal tastes, or those of your recipient. Consider these eight factors when making a selection:

Origin

Cuban tobacco, particularly that from the Vuelta Abajo region, is widely considered the best in the world, says Victoria McKee, a cigar expert with Club Macanudo, an upscale cigar lounge in New York. If you can't get your hands on a Cuban cigar (see our sidebar for details), one from the Dominican Republic — which uses plants grown from Cuban seeds — is the next best thing. Nicaragua and Honduras also produce excellent cigar tobacco. These countries are each known for producing strong, flavorful tobacco that lends itself well to blending. Other quality smokes come from Ecuador, Mexico, Cameroon, Indonesia, the Philippines and the United States.

Brand

Each cigar manufacturer has its own style and flavor, says Bettridge. Big names like Padrón, Partagas, Macanudo, Davidoff of Geneva and Cohiba, among others, are known for their consistently well-crafted cigars with complex flavors. Each brand also produces various lines. Cohiba, for example, offers three tiers, from basic varieties to rare limited editions.

Size

Freud would have had a field day analyzing one's preference in cigar size, which is measured by both length (in inches) and ring gauge (diameter in either 64ths of an inch or in millimeters). Sizes vary by brand, but generally, the smallest are four inches by 40 millimeters Petit Coronas; the largest are 7.5 inches by 49 millimeters Double Coronas. "Base your choice on how much time you have to smoke," says Robert Seise, manager at premium cigar manufacturer Davidoff's New York store. (It's considered poor taste to let the cigar go out and relight it the next day.) The longer and thicker the cigar, the more time it takes to smoke.

Cigar-Buying Tips
Get hands on.

A quality cigar will have a lustrous sheen and slightly oily texture, says McKee. It'll feel firm between your fingers, and give off a strong aroma of tobacco. A cigar that's been stored improperly, on the other hand, will be dull, with a dry, cracked wrapper. "It'll crumble in your hand, just like a cracker," she says. A bad cigar won't have much of a scent.
Stick to specialists.

You'll find an excellent selection of individually priced cigars at tobacconists and cigar shops, says Bettridge. Look for a store with a walk-in humidor, which replicates the temperature and humidity of the cigars' native country. Bonus: Because these stores sell only smokes, you're more likely to find knowledgeable staff to make recommendations.

Avoid buying online.

There's no way to know in advance if cigars have been stored properly, says Bettridge, or if you're getting the real deal (counterfeit cigars — cheap, poor-quality tobacco dressed up with a ring band similar to a legit brand — abound). And even the most reputable online retailers sell cigars primarily in boxes — a costly proposition if you're trying new brands.
Go late.

Unless you have a humidor, any cigar you buy as a gift (or to smoke yourself) should be smoked within a day or two of purchase. The exception: Cigars packaged in tubes. "They put them in the tubes when they're freshly rolled," Seise says, "so the moisture is locked in." So long as you don't open the tube, these cigars can be kept for a week or so.

Shape

Cigars come in two basic shapes. So-called straight cigars, with a classic, tubular shape, are the most widely available. Because they are harder to make, it's less common to encounter cigars of other shapes10, lumped together in one category as figurados, or irregulars. These cigars may be tapered at one end, braided, or have a thick bulge in the middle, to name a few common shapes. Whether your cigar is straight or figurado, some will be rounded; others have a squarish shape from being pressed together in a box. The ends may be rounded, flat or pointed.
A cigar's shape affects the heat of its smoke. A straight cigar smokes progressively hotter; while one with say, a bulge in the middle, will stay cooler longer because its girth increases as the length decreases.

Vintage

Here, vintage refers to the year of the tobacco harvest, rather than the year the cigar was crafted. Manufacturers only make vintages in select years, says Seise; the rest are nonvintage blends containing two to five tobaccos of different varieties and harvest years. The idea is to create a cigar that is consistent from year to year. Because vintage cigars are limited in quantity, they are also pricier. A vintage 2000 Macanudo Prince Phillip (7.5 inches by 49 millimeters), for example, will run you $22. The nonvintage variety is $13.
AgeStored properly, a cigar can keep for decades. The older the cigar, the richer its taste — and the heftier its price tag.

Color

A cigar's outermost leaf, or wrapper, accounts for most of the finished product's flavor, says Seise. The six color grades range from Claro claro, a light green, to Oscuro, nearly black. The darker the wrapper, the more full-bodied the cigar. "Any color is fine so long as it's uniform," McKee says. A cigar with swirls or shading color won't impart good flavor.
Flavor

Unlike wines, there are no chocolate or red fruit notes here — cigars are usually described in basic tastes like sweet, smooth, heavy and rich. Figuring out what you like takes some trial and error. "You'll easily know if you like mild or full," says Bettridge. "If it's too mild for you, you won't be getting any flavor. Too full, and it'll feel like you're blasting your mouth out."

Dominican Republic-MAP OF SOSUA

MAYBACH by Mercedes Benz

Domincan Republic-Santo Domingo

After traveling to the Dominican Republic's North Coast (Puerto Plata, Sosua, Cabarette) every three months for the past 2 years, I'm finally heading to the Capital Santo Domingo. I hear the weather is hot and women are even Hotter. I'll report back as soon as I return.